Michel Roux Jr., head chef at the three-star Gavroche in London, has written numerous cookery books in English, which have unfortunately never been translated into French. His book Matching Food and Wine - Classic and not so classic combinations, is one of my favourites. As a true “foodie” and someone who appreciates the subtle marriage of food and wine, I often dip into this book. Michel Roux Jr. is also the author of The Gavroche Cookbook, The Marathon Chef (combining gastronomy and recipes for good health), and Life in the Kitchen. In Matching Food and Wine, Michel Roux Jr. recommends my white wine, 1999 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot Premier Cru, to accompany his roast turbot.
Ingredients - serves 10
. 1 line-caught seabass (3.5 - 4 kg with scales)
. 1 kg of Swiss chard with leaves
. 500 g of shitake or black chanterelle mushrooms
. 1 bunch of flat-leaf parsley
. 1 vanilla pod
. 1 gram of powdered ginger
. 250 g of butter
. Juice of four lemons
. Olive oil as needed (to cook seabass)
. Flour as needed (to cook chard)
Fillet and bone the fish. Cut into portions.
Make a stock with the fish head and bones. Add the vanilla pod.
Take the Swiss chard and remove the leaves. Cut the whites into thin strips and cook in a white stock. Choose the best leaves, blanch them, and place them on a silicon mat. Brush with olive oil, cover with greaseproof paper, and dry convection oven for 3 to 4 hours at 80°.
Wash and cook the shitake/black chanterelle mushrooms, and put them to one side.
Cook the seabass with olive oil in a non-stick pan.
Brown the chard and shitake or black chanterelle mushrooms in butter.
To make the sauce, de-glaze the pan. Add the powdered ginger, the juice of two lemons, and some butter. Reduce to form an emulsion.
Place the chard in bundles on a plate with the shitake/black chanterelle mushrooms arranged around them, and garnish the chard with a little chopped parsley.
Place the seabass on top of the chard bundles and coat with the sauce. Add the dried chard leaves for decoration. Keep the rest of the sauce aside to serve separately.
4 dozen frogs’ legs
4 heads of garlic
3.5 ozs (100g) of parsley with the stems removed
4-5 ozs (120 g) butter
½ cup milk
2 tablespoons cold pressed extra virgin olive oil
Salt and ground black pepper
Preparation and cooking
1. Wash the parsley and remove all the stems even the small ones. Cook the heads in boiling, salted water for 3 or 4 minutes; rinse them in a cold water then purée in a food processor. Set aside.
2. Break apart the heads of garlic to separate the cloves and, without skinning them, drop them into boiling, salted water for 2 minutes. Drain and peel. Change the water and return the garlic to the fresh water and boil them again for 7 to 8 minutes. Remove them; change the water again to remove the strength of the garlic but to preserve its taste. Repeat this operation 5 or 6 times until the garlic is very well cooked. When cooked, purée.
3. Place the purée of garlic in a saucepan with ½ cup milk. Mix together and season with salt and pepper. Set aside.
4. Salt and pepper the frogs’ legs and cook in very hot olive oil with a pat of butter. Cook until golden, 2 to 3 minutes depending on size.
5. Put a little water in a saucepan and blend in the purée of parsley to obtain a coulis of parsley. Heat and season to taste.
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