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Notes on 19 March 2009

One year in the early 21st century that will remain branded in our memories is 2003, marked by excesses of frost and heat. Winegrowers, like everyone else, will long remember these first signs of global warming: a scorching-hot summer and a remarkably early harvest.

Six years later, it is by no means unusual to open a bottle of our Boudriotte 2003 for a tasting in the winery.

The low-lying vineyard was badly damaged by frost, resulting in very low yields, which turned out to be very fortunate, as the vines would hardly have been able to ripen more than the few remaining bunches, due to the intense heat.

At this stage, I really enjoy watching this lovely, golden-yellow wine swirling around in my glass and smelling its rich bouquet.

On the palate, it retains the full-body it had as a young wine but has developed even more elegance and finesse. It is as though the wine has acquired greater control over its exuberance with age.

It still shows lots of dried fruit and hints of chocolate on the palate, but the aftertaste is much cleaner and fresher.

We find the wine charming and approachable, but, at the same time, surprisingly lively and characterful.

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